Hometime: Weekend Home Projects/Hometime: Weekend Home Projects.iso/media/t1206.txt

Text File | 1994-09-08 | 6KB | 93 lines

1206    FRAMING TIPS

Framing an interior partition
The framing for interior walls includes the same studs, plates, headers, cripples and trimmers
that make up an exterior wall. You can construct them in the same way, too - assembling all the
components on the floor, then tipping the framework into position. But if space is tight or you
must compensate for an uneven floor or ceiling, consider attaching plates to the floor and ceiling,
then cutting or nailing in studs one at a time.

First figure the dimensions of the partitions you plan to build. Although the standard ceiling
height is 8 feet, older homes often have higher ceilings and basements often have lower ones. If
the floor is carpeted, remove it from the places where the new partitions will stand. Measure the
distance from the floor to the ceiling or ceiling joists. Do this in several places along the line of
the partitions to see whether there is any unevenness to account for.

Sketch out the framework on graph paper. Studs should be located 16 inches apart, measured
from the centers of adjoining studs. If you're going to install a door, try to have one side of the
opening fall at a regular stud location. This will save a little on materials costs.

Cut the top and bottom plates to length, lay them side by side and use a combination square to
mark stud locations. Lift the top plate into place and nail it to the bottoms of joists or to blocking
nailed between joists. You'll need a helper to hold the plate while you nail. Next, have your
helper dangle a plumb bob from the end of the top plate and at one or two points along one edge
of it. Use the bob to plot the bottom plate's location.

Nail the bottom plate to a wood floor - fasten it to concrete with masonry connectors such as lag
screws and lead anchors. With the top and bottom plates installed, measure between them for the
length of each stud. Add 1/16 inch for a snug fit, then cut the studs. Tap or kick each stud into
place.


Toenailing
To secure the studs, drive nails at a 45-degree angle through the end of a stud and into the plate.
Don't worry if the first nail you drive moves the stud. The second nail, driven in from the other
side, should move it back.

Another way to brace studs for toenailing is with a 14 1/2-inch-long spacer block. Place it
between the last secured stud and the one you're about to nail.


Turning a corner
If your project calls for building two or more walls that connect to each other, you need to know
how to join the wall sections together properly. This involves making sure the walls are square
with each other and providing a nailing surface for the drywall.

This arrangement includes an extra stud that provides a nailing surface and buttresses the corner
as well. Fasten the studs together with 16-penny nails. You can also create a corner with 2x4
scraps sandwiched between two full-length studs at the end of one wall or the other. Use three
spacers in a standard 8-foot wall.

Where two walls intersect, nail three studs together and to the plates at the point of intersection.
Then center the intersecting wall between the outside faces of the studs, square the corners and
nail the wall into place.


Framing an opening
If your wall will include a doorway, mark its location on the bottom plate, but don't cut the plate
before installing it. Plan an opening that is 2.5 inches wider than the door-to allow for the side
jambs and shims, and 2 inches higher, to allow for the top jamb - shims and carpeting or other
flooring that goes beneath the door.

Install studs until you reach the opening, then nail trimmers to the studs on either side. Trimmers
provide solid, unbending support for the door and also for a header up top. Make the header from
two 2x6s with a 1/2-inch plywood sandwiched between them. Install cripples above the header,
then cut away the bottom plate.


Framing with metal studs
Metal framing systems are even easier to install than wooden ones, and metal offers several other
advantages over wood - metal framing members won't warp in damp places and each stud is
perfectly straight and uniform.

Bear in mind that a metal-framed wall is somewhat fragile until it's covered with drywall. Use
caution when working with metal studs so you don't accidentally damage them. Also, metal
studs have little compressive strength, so don't use them for load-bearing walls or walls that
must support heavy shelves.

Metal studs are usually galvanized steel, and they come in a variety of sizes and shapes. The most
common types are the C stud and the channel track. You cut the channels with snips and fasten
them to the floor and ceiling. Cut the studs to length, slip each one sideways into the channels,
then give it a twist at top and bottom. You'll feel a firm snap as the stud locks into place in the
tracks.

Finish off a metal stud wall by screwing 5/8-inch-thick drywall to the studs and tracks. The
framing won't be sturdy until drywall is securely fastened to it.


Time frame
Framing goes up fast. Two people can erect the exterior walls for a single-story structure in a day
or two. Same goes for a simple interior partition layout. Metal framing, which doesn't require
toenailing, or nailing of any sort for that matter, goes together in a matter of hours. In fact, you
may be able to erect a metal frame wall and cover it with drywall in a single day.